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Alpamayo, June 2003
1.
In July 2003 Huaraz became worldnews when an unfortunate avelanche on Alpamayo killed a large number of climbers.
Kathy and Mark Cosley Houston went up just a month before the disaster and already noticed a cornice overhung on perhaps the most famous mountain of the Cordillera Blanca.

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Ascending Alpamayo we had the usual mix of weather, but our summit day was fantastic.
The route was rather different this year. A large cornice overhung the normal Ferrari route and we were forced into the gully to the left. A wild traverse left just below the cornice led to a gap and the summit ridge. From there the ridge could be followed (in some years this is not possible) all the way to the highest point. A couple short knife-edge sections on the crest added spice to the ascent.


1. Sunset from Alpamayo high camp.
2. Sunset at Alpamayo high camp.
3.The first view of Alpamayo.
4.Alpamayo from Base Camp. The SW face, the usual side of ascent, is around to the left.
5.Alpamayo Base Camp.
6.Artensonraju from Camp I.
7.Camp I at about 16000 feet. some folks skip this camp, but unless you are well acclimated this may not be a good idea.
8.Derek and Emery toil up to high camp.

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9. A beautiful sunset from high camp after the ascent.
10. Looking down the route on Alpamayo.
11. Nevado Santa Cruz from near the top of the climb.
12 .Blowing snow at the col.


13. Heidi and Kathy came up to high camp the day after Mark, Emery and Derek climbed. Unfortunately, the weather got incredibly windy, putting an end to their summit plans.

The entire team at high camp, just before we started down. Left to right are Peter Alvarado (an aspirant guide helping us out) Emery, Heidi, Derek and Kathy.

All images,text ©2003 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved www.cosleyhouston.com
Sunset form Alpamayo high camp. Alpamayo High Camp First view on Alpamayo Alpamayo from Base Camp. First view on Alpamayo Alpamayo from Base Camp. Alpamayo basecamp. Camp I at about 16000 feet. Artensonraju from Camp I. Alpamayo basecamp. Derek and Emery toil up to high camp. Camp I at about 16000 feet. Looking down the route on Alpamayo. Classic Alpamayo shot at sunset. Looking down the route on Alpamayo. Blowing snow at the Alpamayo col. Nevado Santa Cruz from near the top of the climb. Looking down the route on Alpamayo. Blowing snow at the Alpamayo col. Entire team at Alpamayo highcamp. Blowing snow at the Alpamayo col.